Granada
What strikes me most about Granada--my home for my stay in Nicaragua--is its many faces. For a city of 100,000, it manages to cater to a number of populations who don't really have to interact if they don't want to. The foreign groups of backpackers, luxury tourists, and expatriates have different reasons for being here and (particularly the first two) do not have reason to mingle much. Expatriates (mostly from the U.S., Canada, and--surprisingly--Germany) in particular seem to have formed their own network and keep to themselves for the most part, enjoying the increased value of their savings in a notoriously inexpensive country.
There is also a notable divide between the native poor and middle classes. (Anything of an upper class I haven't much seen--I imagine their society is pretty private as well.) I've been fascinated over the past four weeks by the contrast in manners and attitudes between the impoverished people I work with and the middle class family I've been living with. There isn't much mutual regard--which I suppose is true anywhere--but was (embarrassingly?) a revelation to me, coming in as a person with extraordinary wealth compared to both groups and expecting them to show solidarity against other, more highly developed and arguably exploitative, societies. But even if that were true, that's a national-level argument. I'm supposed to be talking about the local scene, right?
The city itself, without its inhabitants, is...nice. It's walkable (not much more than a half hour from end to end), easy to navigate (but also easy to lose oneself in while exploring), and changes remarkably with the weather and during the day. An old church that looks unimpressive in the rain is rather stately-looking in sunny weather and fantastic to see with a sunset behind it. The main plaza is an open, relaxed area that goes from nearly deserted to thronging in a matter of hours. Parades and celebrations are a constant draw*, especially in this local political season, and I witnessed four funeral processions through town during my first two weeks here. (Each time the casket is carried through the streets in a black, horse-drawn carriage** to the church, followed by a few dozen mourners on foot, none of whom ever appeared to be crying.)
Granada is said to be a conservative city and a city of the arts. With its lakeside location, it's obvious why it's such a draw for so many outsiders. Unfortunately, it's getting to the point that locals are no longer able to affors housing in the center of town. I've seen the barrios on the outskirts, and I've talked to the people there, and I won't make a judgment call about what appears to be the future of the city, but I hope local character remains firmly entrenched.
* I was supremely lucky to be here the day that Sor Maria Romero, a nun from Granada, was beatified by the Pope. The festival that day featured marching bands, dance groups, and a float featuring a statue of the good Sister helping a child...attended by three little girls dressed up as angels and a fourth dressed like the nun herself, horn-rimmed glasses and all.
** Yes, it stops traffic, but everything stops traffic here.
There is also a notable divide between the native poor and middle classes. (Anything of an upper class I haven't much seen--I imagine their society is pretty private as well.) I've been fascinated over the past four weeks by the contrast in manners and attitudes between the impoverished people I work with and the middle class family I've been living with. There isn't much mutual regard--which I suppose is true anywhere--but was (embarrassingly?) a revelation to me, coming in as a person with extraordinary wealth compared to both groups and expecting them to show solidarity against other, more highly developed and arguably exploitative, societies. But even if that were true, that's a national-level argument. I'm supposed to be talking about the local scene, right?
The city itself, without its inhabitants, is...nice. It's walkable (not much more than a half hour from end to end), easy to navigate (but also easy to lose oneself in while exploring), and changes remarkably with the weather and during the day. An old church that looks unimpressive in the rain is rather stately-looking in sunny weather and fantastic to see with a sunset behind it. The main plaza is an open, relaxed area that goes from nearly deserted to thronging in a matter of hours. Parades and celebrations are a constant draw*, especially in this local political season, and I witnessed four funeral processions through town during my first two weeks here. (Each time the casket is carried through the streets in a black, horse-drawn carriage** to the church, followed by a few dozen mourners on foot, none of whom ever appeared to be crying.)
Granada is said to be a conservative city and a city of the arts. With its lakeside location, it's obvious why it's such a draw for so many outsiders. Unfortunately, it's getting to the point that locals are no longer able to affors housing in the center of town. I've seen the barrios on the outskirts, and I've talked to the people there, and I won't make a judgment call about what appears to be the future of the city, but I hope local character remains firmly entrenched.
* I was supremely lucky to be here the day that Sor Maria Romero, a nun from Granada, was beatified by the Pope. The festival that day featured marching bands, dance groups, and a float featuring a statue of the good Sister helping a child...attended by three little girls dressed up as angels and a fourth dressed like the nun herself, horn-rimmed glasses and all.
** Yes, it stops traffic, but everything stops traffic here.
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